Tombo Den is a moody homage to Tokyo’s late-night dining scene, inspired by the time restaurateur Chris Lucas (Kisumé, Chin Chin, Hawker Hall) spent living and working there in the ’90s. Chef Dan Chan’s menu is all reimagined street food classics and charcoal-fired short ribs, while over at the sushi counter, sushi chefs Toaki Kyo and Carlos Lopez take the steel to the day’s catch.
Sommelier Yuki Hirose has a drinks list to match, rich with great Japanese sake and local and international wines, and – just as it was foretold – there’s karaoke. Here’s what to order, according to Dan Chan and Yuki Hirose.
Which dish best captures the Tombo Den vibe?
Dan Chan: Hands down, it’s our sushi counter selection platter: an array of nigiri, sashimi, crisp rice and maki that’s driven by each day’s market fish haul. It’s like this ever-changing showcase of superb produce and technique that speaks beautifully to our whole approach – and it looks absolutely amazing too.
Let’s go big. Let’s go crazy. What have you got for me?
DC: The soy-glazed beef short rib is a guaranteed good time. We serve it with lettuce cups, shiso leaves and pickles, so it’s a great one for sharing — pop it in the middle of the table and get DIYing.
How about a drink?
Yuki Hirose: If you’re going for a wine, I’d recommend a glass of the 2016 Bannockburn 1314 Shiraz from Geelong. It’s beautifully aged and you won’t find a much better match for the wagyu zabuton steak. But if you want to really lean into the Tombo experience with a sake, try my favourite from the list: the Dewazakura Dewasansan Junmai Ginjo. This one’s super crisp and clean, and I don’t think there’s any sashimi or sushi that it doesn’t match perfectly with.
Got anything light and fresh?
Dan Chan: Plenty. Outside of sushi, I think people will particularly love the barbecued squid, which is done as a salad with this beautiful kick of yuzu kosho. There’s also the sweetcorn fritter with barbecue sauce and aonori, which is a pretty perfect two-bite situation.
Where should I sit?
DC: Definitely try to nab a front-row seat at the sushi counter, where you can watch our incredible sushi chefs at work. It’s a beautiful long bar that runs right through the centre of Tombo Den’s downstairs dining space and will put you at the very heart of the action.
What’s your favourite thing to look at here?
DC: There’s something extra special about the AI artwork by Tom Blachford that features throughout both levels. I love how bold and striking it is, and I think it really sums up Tombo Den’s distinct energy so well.
What if I like tasty food but don’t eat animals?
DC: We’ve got this whole roasted cauliflower with red chilli miso and furikake that is destined to be a cult-fave order for vegetarians and meat-eaters alike. The charred avocado hand roll with gobo and spring onion has also been getting lots of praise.
And to close?
YH: Our Japanese ice-cream sundaes are pretty fantastic, but anyone who’s partial to a liquid dessert should put the Espresso Martini on their radar. We’ve reimagined the classic with the help of Brookie’s macadamia liqueur, miso caramel and tonka bean cream, and it’s a winner.
And is there really karaoke?
Dan Chan: There sure is! If you’re hosting an event in our upstairs private dining space, dubbed The Karaoke Den, you can dial things up a notch with some karaoke — it’s just another little nod to the late-night Tokyo experience.
Tombo Den, 100 Chapel St, Windsor, open 5pm-late Mon-Thu and Fri-Sun from noon, (03) 9960 9702, tomboden.com.au, @tombo_den