There’s only one restaurateur capable of out-Lucasing Chris Lucas – and his name is Chris Lucas. The man who brought you the opulent stylings of Society, Grill Americano, and Yakimono rarely misses an opportunity to go large. But with his latest restaurant, he’s gone positively énorme. Welcome to Masion Bâtard – a love letter to modern French cuisine penned over four devoutly outré storeys at the top end of Bourke Street, on the site of one Melbourne’s first culinary institutions, The Italian Society.
It’s Champagne Piña Coladas and lobster croquettes on the breezy third-storey at La Terrasse. It’s poulet rôti with green olives followed by mousse served tableside at Restaurant Bâtard. And if you dare, it’s Old Fashioneds and red-velvet reverie at Le Club, a late-night speakeasy that fizzes with Old World flair underneath Bourke Street. It’s the biggest opening of the year, and it is a Francophile’s fantasy. Chef Adam Sanderson is in charge of the food across the building and comes packing experience from both The Fat Duck and Noma; here he his now with everything you’re going to want to eat at Melbourne’s new home of high-end French revelry.
How about a drink?
If it’s an apéritif you’re after, lean into the French of it all with a little pineau des Charentes, which is a fortified wine made with Cognac and grape juice. We’re pouring an awesome classic one from Drouet, or you could try a local spin à la Melbourne Gin Co’s pineau de Gembrook. Of course, there’s also one of the country’s heftiest collections of Bordeaux and Burgundy to keep you busy.
Four levels? Where should I sit?
If the sun’s shining, I’d be heading straight up to La Terrasse for a spot beside the maple tree to tip back some Champagne, oysters and lobster croquettes. It’s absolutely stunning up there. Cooler days call for a prime position on level one with views of the grand vintage chandelier and that leafy outlook over Bourke Street. But on the ground floor, the window seat by the front corner is the one I’d be gunning for – it’s a great spot to soak up all the action, watching everything kicking along in the restaurant and the kitchen.
What’s your favourite design element?
The oyster bar is spectacular, all marble and smoked mirrors and fluted glass, looking very fancy and inviting in the corner of the main restaurant. It’s quite the showcase. But as a chef, one element that really excites me is our Josper rôtisserie in the kitchen; every dish we’re using it for just comes up beautifully and I think it lends something really special to our menu.
Got anything light and fresh?
Absolutely – light and fresh is what our entrée selection is all about. You might begin with king prawn salad with chilli and lime, excellent grilled calamari done with peas and lots of herbs, and a spicy tuna tartare served over avocado. Up the larger end of the menu, you’ve also got the confit king salmon with lemon zest, garlic and fennel, which we finish with a bright, lively herb dressing.
And if you’re just there for a drink and snack? What’s your go-to?
Order something Burgundian to sip, along with something light and snacky from the caviar selection. I think we’ve come up with a really fun and approachable line-up that takes the stuffiness out of the whole caviar experience. You can always go the indulgent route and enjoy it by the tin – or you can play it more easygoing (and affordable) with bites like the crab and caviar brioche toastie, or the caviar-topped crisp potato omelette.
What if I like tasty food but don’t eat animals?
In that case, it’d be hard to go past Maison Bâtard’s take on a French classic, the cheese soufflé. Staying on theme with the rest of the menu, it doesn’t lean too rich or heavy – we’ve used Gruyère but tempered it with goat’s cheese to help lighten things up, and matched it with a frisée and butter-leaf salad, which also has some pickled pear for extra bite.
Name the dish that captures the Maison Bâtard vibe.
Maison Bâtard’s take on modern French food draws on traditional elements but gives them a distinct Melbourne spin, which means lighter fare than you might expect from the classics – not as rich and heavy. The signature poulet rôti sums it up pretty well – Bannockburn chicken that’s brined for 12 hours, dried, marinated and cooked on the rôtisserie , then paired with green olives, fresh herbs and lemon juice, and a super moreish roast chicken sauce. It’s inspired by a dish at Alain Ducasse’s Allard, but it’s also fresh and vibrant and very now.
Let’s go big. Let’s go crazy. What have you got for me?
How about charcoal-grilled half lobster with sauce américaine and a citrus fennel salad, or the whole rôtisserie duck with peas and sauce choron?
That is big. That is crazy. And to close?
Go on and make it a grand finale with the Maison Bâtard mousse au chocolate. It’s served tableside for full effect, with a scoop of silky-smooth chocolate mousse topped with Chantilly cream and finished with shavings of Belgian chocolate. And then if you find a second wind, perhaps pop down to Le Club (which opens in the new year) to close out the night with a Maison Old Fashioned and some live entertainment.
Maison Bâtard, 23 Bourke St, Melbourne, (03) 8616 7905, open noon-10pm Sun-Thu and noon-11pm Fri-Sat, maisonbatard.com.au, @maison_batard