The Espy’s mega-revamp continues with the arrival of Louey’s, a rollicking rock ‘n’ roll diner paying homage to the great culinary canon of American Italian food, the scene set with splashes of neon, luxe red leather booths, soft lighting and a disco ball-inspired DJ booth in the centre of the room. It’s a riot, it’s a hoot, and here’s everything you need to eat there when you’re next down St Kilda way, according to executive chef, Tony Moss.
How about a drink?
The 2 Sip Dirty Martini and house-blend amaro are standouts. If you want to go a little crazy there is a magnum of Pizzini King Valley prosecco to share with friends or a Giant Steps pinot noir to complement the wood-fired steaks.
I’m here for a good time, not a long time.
The crab toast with caviar and celery and Louey’s big fat green olives on ice are good quick bites. And, to keep with the American theme, a Boulevardier cocktail made with Maker’s Mark whiskey, sweet vermouth and Campari is the ideal match.
Got anything light and fresh?
The kingfish crudo is a nice light dish with Campari, grapefruit and pickles. The clam linguine is also a really good balance of fresh and light.
What if I like tasty food but don’t eat animals?
Our ricotta-stuffed eggplant parmigiana is full of flavour. The ricotta is spiked with basil and slow-roasted garlic, then crumbed and topped with fior di latte before being roasted; it’s a hit. The soused green tomato salad is spot on, too.
Name the dish that captures the Louey’s vibe.
The spaghetti meatballs with a side of chicken parma is Louey’s on a plate. It’s big, red, cheesy – kind of like the room. It’s a flavour punch to the mouth. But then the slipper lobster pizza is delicate, flavour-forward and a little luxe, which is very much the Louey’s vibe.
Let’s go big. Let’s go crazy. What have you got for me?
I would be ordering the mini fried lasagne, the oozy burrata, and the bloody good Parma ham to start. For mains, the aged 1kg Fiorentina T-bone, the coal-roasted lobster, the clam linguine and all of the sides. That’s going to be a nice spread for four, but could be stretched to five, so long as the conversation is good.
And to close?
The cannoli are great; they’re spiked with limoncello curd. But you have to try the lemonade, which is limoncello gelato and lemon sorbet served in a whole lemon; a signature dish at Louey’s.
Louey’s Bar and Kitchen, The Esplanade Hotel, 11 The Esplanade, St Kilda, open noon-late Wed-Sun, (03) 9534 0211, hotelesplanade.com.au/loueys, @hotelesplanadestkilda