“Dining at Barragunda is to experience the coastal terroir of the Mornington Peninsula at that point in time,” says chef Simone Watts. Right now that might mean all manner of late-season heirloom tomatoes with smoked stracciatella and tomato-leaf oil, it might sun-dried peaches dressed in orange-blossom honey and peach-pip vinegar, and depending on the day, it could be just about any cut of beef – “a dry-aged rib-eye, if you’re lucky,” says Watts. Here’s what’s cooking at regional Victoria’s most exciting new opening, according to Simone Watts.
Where should I sit?
Honestly, there’s not a table in the restaurant that doesn’t have a dreamy view of our market garden and coastal landscape. It’s a large, open room and has a cathedral-style ceiling and floor-to-ceiling windows; it’s intimate, but it feels expansive as you gaze out across the vegetation. There’s also something special about a seat at the bar, as anyone who likes an insider’s perspective will appreciate.
How about a drink?
Restaurant manager Marie Grasset and Chris Truger have written a wine list showcasing vineyards that share our regenerative values. We’re proud to be the only restaurant pouring R.H.V’s 180 Chardonnay, but we’re also excited to be showcasing incredible work from some of our Tasmanian friends, such as Two Metres Tall and R D’Meure.
Our cocktail and non-alcoholic pairing has been designed by Sam Peasnell (Etta, Dom’s Social Club, Tedesca Osteria) utilising the estate’s extensive orchard alongside the kitchen’s ferments and native infusions. We have a range of house-made vermouths to sip on while strolling through the garden, while the Marigold Spritz is a non-drinker’s best friend.
What’s your favourite design element?
The marriage between wood and clay. The warm tones of our spotted-gum bench tops and ceilings alongside terracotta plinths and tiles have such beautiful synergy.
Got anything light and fresh?
I feel as though you really notice the difference when eating a vegetable-forward menu that’s organic and harvested daily. Although there are some decadent courses on our menu, diners still leave filling healthy and nourished. Our salad of estate leaves, flowers and ferments changes daily and is a reflection of what the garden and our pantry are offering at that time. This week we served stunning lettuce leaves from Morning Penni Farm, filled with charred and fermented sugarloaf cabbage, sour cucumbers, dill-seed cream and finely grated aged Capony, a semi-hard goat’s cheese from Main Ridge Dairy.
What if I like tasty food but don’t eat animals?
Vegetables are always the heroes on my menus. The first bites on our menu are fresh baby vegetables, picked each morning and served with a sabayon made with leek-top vinegar and fermented allium powder, followed by a spelt danish filled with green almond tapenade topped with white almond cream.
Is there a dish that captures the Barragunda vibe?
The tomato. It’s been a labour of love to prepare and share this dish all summer, but sadly her days are limited as the nights begin to cool and our beefsteak tomatoes slow down. We pick a range of large heirloom tomatoes, such as Cherokee Purple, Oxheart, persimmon and Black Krim, remove the skins and then cure them overnight. The next day they’re dried for about eight hours, where any of the liquid is then reduced to re-glaze the tomato. They’re served on house-made smoked stracciatella and finished with a tomato-leaf oil.
Let’s go big. Let’s go crazy. What have you got for me?
We serve Black Angus beef raised here on the property as part of our main course. It’s a mammoth job for our kitchen team to work through an entire beast every two weeks, with every cut being utilised. It’s the luck of the draw, but if you’re lucky you might dine with us on the day we’re serving the dry-aged rib-eye.
And to close?
Our opening dessert was a collaboration between me and pastry chef Laura Skvor and is an ode to Greg Malouf. Greg and I spent many nights working together in the pastry section at MoMo, and I wanted to create a dessert that embodied his favourite flavours. Warm semolina is infused with cardamom, then filled with sun-dried peaches dressed in orange-blossom honey and peach-pit vinegar. Apricot ice-cream sits on top of a filo wafer, with a side of caramel.
Barragunda Dining, 113 Cape Schanck Rd, Cape Schanck, open noon-5.30pm Friday, noon-5.30pm and 6.30pm-10.30pm Saturday, and noon-5.30pm Sunday and Monday, (03) 8644 4050, barragunda.com.au, @barragunda