Tokyo Tina. Hanoi Hannah. Firebird. New Quarter. Moonhouse. It’s been 13 years since hospitality powerhouse Commune Group arrived on the culinary scene, and yet somehow you get the feeling they’re only just warming up. As its latest daughter, Studio Amaro, celebrates her first lap around the sun, we caught up with Commune Group founder and creative director Simon Blacher to chat the secret to sustained success in a tricky business.
How did you get your start?
We started very small and naïve. We were a group of friends who made it up as we went along. Sometimes youthful (okay, blind) enthusiasm is the best recipe for success. We opened up our small noodle shop in Windsor, which at the time was short on exciting places to eat. The original This was the original Hanoi Hannah, a perfect mix of great food, proper drinks, loud music and a crowded seating plan in a neighbourhood that was about to pop. We launched in a time when waitlists and not being able to book were becoming part of going out. This added to the excitement of what was then only a 50-seat venue. It really was a baptism of fire and we learnt a lot very quickly. From there we’ve opened venues consistently over a decade.
What is it about your venues that has gained traction in Melbourne?
Great venues aren’t just about one thing, they’re the sum of their parts. Everything, from the food and drinks to the service and vibe, has to hum at the same frequency. The feeling as soon as you walk through the doors of a venue is the most powerful. This feeling is a combination of all the senses, except taste. Funnily enough, taste is the last thing guests experience. We have also never labelled ourselves as traditional. From the outset, we wanted to take inspiration from certain cuisines, but not be bound by them. Melbourne is a multicultural city, and I love the idea of respectfully amalgamating flavours and styles to suit a Melbourne palate. We’re fortunate that our food history is young and not hamstrung by tradition. I think our strategy to take inspiration from our city as well as its cuisine and package it up into something new has made us very Melbourne.
Is there any special sauce to what you do?
Investing in people and showing them loyalty, whether it’s staff or contractors, has been the backbone of Commune. We have a solid ethos that has allowed us to grow with a solid crew. We’ve had some staff here for the whole journey. Many have left and returned, which says to me that we must be doing something right. Consistently working with the same external agencies and maintaining close ties, and now friendships, with many of them has also meant that we have a large team who understand us, our messaging and our workflow.
Any regrets?
Where do I start? My biggest regret was closing Saigon Sally. It was an impulse decision that in retrospect was the wrong one.
What about the big lessons learned?
The biggest lesson I’ve learned, and it might be a cliché, is to always trust your gut. It’s speaking to you for a reason and is based on all the micro lessons you have learned along the way. Take the time to listen to key people around you on the big decisions. This balance is super important in our game. We work in an industry with a countless number of moving parts.
Another key lesson, from a marketing perspective, is to always focus on what makes your brand unique and special. Every brand has something within it that will cut the noise of the hospitality scene. Finding out what that is, and leaning into it, has always been paramount to our growth.
What’s been the key to scaling up successfully for you?
People and distinct brand identity. Simply put, you can’t grow without great people. You can force it, but if the teams are not right, you will pay for it very quickly. Secondly, brand identity, both at the restaurant and group level, is key. We have, by design, tried to ensure that our brands have their own voice and identity. At a group level, we have consciously tried to ensure the Commune brand stands alone. This has meant that we can explore a wide range of opportunities.
Times are tough right now. How are you adapting?
By design, we have always had offerings aimed at different parts of the market. This has allowed us to weather the storm somewhat when consumer behaviour shifts. Multiple revenue streams have also been key: takeaway, delivery, functions and events, vouchers and merch, all of which have always been part of our models, have helped drive extra revenue in a softening market.
Any advice for other operators who are hurting?
Find the aspect of your brand that is unique and lean in. Simplify your voice but scream louder.
Who do you look to in Victoria for inspiration? Which venues and people set the bar for you?
Christian McCabe and Dave Verheul at Embla – they are such great exemplars of true hospitality built on knowledge and experience, and Embla a neighbourhood-style inner-city wine bar that has shaped the city’s eating and drinking habits.
Andrew McConnell – simply the GOAT. I can’t fault anything. Trader House, in my opinion, is the benchmark for Victorian hospitality.
Ross Magnaye from Serai – I love his use of big flavours and I love Serai’s raucous hospitality. The food is unique and memorable, and the team backs it up with unpretentious and generous hospitality.
What about Commune? Best case scenario, how you want people to think about what you do?
I would love people to think about Commune as a small part of what makes dining in this city great. Non-conformist, yet very good at what we do.