Heidi Modra opened Fitzroy North mainstay Pinotta on a whim. That was almost 15 years ago. In the time since, Pinotta has become a byword for community, for neighbourhood excellence, and above all, for great food that’s easy to order, eat, understand and love. And since the shrewd appointment of Philippa Sibley as chef in 2023, that little restaurant down the road is mixing it with the best in town. All from a whim – one to which the dining public owes a great debt of gratitude. Here’s Modra, ever the optimist, with lessons learned and a raft of sage advice for players young and old.
How did you get your start, Heidi?
I opened Pinotta in 2011 on a bit of a whim, wanting a career change from graphic design to something people-oriented. I had a lot of energy to burn, time on my hands, and a desire to be part of a community. I had been studying and making wine with friends in my spare time, and my childhood included a large fruit orchard and vegetable garden so a love of food and produce was very instinctive. It seemed a natural progression to combine food and wine with people and open a restaurant.
What do you think it is about your venue that has gained traction in Melbourne?
Pinotta has always had a strong neighbourhood following, but the introduction of Philippa Sibley in 2023 really changed our place in the hospitality landscape. Her talent and reputation have restored Pinotta back to the welcoming, confident bistro it began as. Together we have a highly productive relationship, and this has translated into a better experience for guests. Her food is incredible – inspired, seasonal and dynamic – and she brings a loyal following with her.
Is there any other special sauce to what you do?
I’ve always believed that building relationships with our community has been the mainstay of our longevity. We are woven into the daily life of our local friends, from first dates and weddings to kids’ birthdays.
Our involvement in events such as Commes des Femmes and Hospitality for Palestine also engaged a broader audience; it’s amazing how quickly and how far word of mouth can travel.
Any regrets?
Everything but nothing.
It’s a love job, for sure. And nothing could have prepared me for the enormousness of it all – the big-heartedness of people in your life every day, the staff who come and go and then come back again, the endurance of the Pinotta family – it’s all a very special thing.
What about the big lessons learned?
Don’t read the reviews, but if you do, take them with a pinch of salt (pun intended). Trust your intuition, and remember to keep the balance between your personal and work life.
What’s been the key to scaling up successfully for you?
Without doubt, it’s been through hard work and persistence, and building a team of people who support and inspire. And no question that the recognition from MFWF and The Age Good Food Guide have helped immensely.
You hear some operators and punters concerned that groups are starting to dominate hospitality in Australia. What’s your take on that?
Congratulations to anybody who thrives in this industry, it’s so competitive and vulnerable, and to be successful is a huge achievement. There is a world in which small and large groups co-exist, and while it would be easy to feel overshadowed, I choose to only look inward at my own space and what happens within these four walls. That’s my focus. I have the luxury of running a very personable business where I get to touch every table.
Times are tough right now. How are you adapting?
Without question, the last few years have been the toughest, but the pendulum must swing around. I surround myself with good people who I believe in and who believe in me back – staff, community, suppliers, peers, friends. The beauty of a small business is that you can adjust quickly to a changing landscape, and hopefully always in time.
Any advice for other operators who are hurting?
Trust your instincts and keep talking to your peers about how you (and they) are going. You’re never alone, although it often feels like you are, and the best advice comes from the people who share the same view.
Who do you look to in Victoria for inspiration? Which venues and people set the bar for you?
I am continuously inspired by the energy and capacity of Hannah Green at Etta. The food, the cocktails, the space – ever-changing and always amazing. Leading her industry every step of the way.
Some of my favourite places are Tedesca Osteria, with Brigitte Hafner on the fire and James Broadway on the floor. My heart is full as soon as I walk through that beautiful timber door; and La Pinta in Reservoir, where Adam Racina continues to deliver the best plates in the north.
What about Pinotta? Best-case scenario, how would you want people to think about what you do?
I hope that people continue to come back to Pinotta because it feels like you’re returning to an old friend.
Pip and I are always talking about what’s next, what’s tasting good, and what we want to achieve this year. We have an MFWF event in March that we can’t wait for called An Ode to Autumn, and an ever-changing gallery of illustrations in the dining room that reflect the ingredients we put on the plate.
Pinotta, lunch Thu-Sat, dinner and drinks Wed-Sat, 32 Best St, Fitzroy North, (03) 9481 3393, pinotta.com, @pinottabartable