It’s been 10 years since Tipo 00 plated its first bowl of spaghetti. In the years since, it’s become a Little Bourke Street landmark; a high-water mark for pasta of all shapes and sauces, and an agenda-setter for its contemporaries. Chefs Andreas Papadakis and Alberto Fava run a kitchen where creativity flourishes by the glow of the pass.
As Melbourne’s favourite pasta bar celebrates double digits, we asked Skidmore to walk us through the sugo speciale that makes dining at he and his fellows’ venues – Tipo 00, Osteria Ilaria, Grana, Figlia and counting – so appealing.
How did you get your start with Tipo, Luke?
I searched for many years for an affordable suitable site. It was a long process with many near misses, though obviously 10 years on we’re very happy with the result. We were also lucky enough to get assistance from many friends and family, including my sister who did the design with a friend, and my dad, who built the restaurant.
What do you think it is about Tipo 00 that has gained traction in Melbourne?
The venue has a very Melbourne feel, I would say. Has a bit of a laneway feel to it. The restaurant has a bustling energy and the food is something we would like to think is approachable, yet with a modern take on Italian cuisine.
What’s been the key to scaling up successfully for you?
Having a solid team has to be the first thing that comes to mind. I’m lucky to have many exceptional employees working with me, who are all stronger in their areas than me.
Any regrets?
Many! But nothing major. I think we’re always striving to be better, and with that we are constantly thinking on things we missed, regret, or could have done better.
What about the big lessons learned?
Staff are incredibly important. I guess that’s an obvious one. I also think if I were to give advice to someone in my position before opening, I would highly encourage patience on site selection. I think it’s incredibly important and often takes a long time.
You hear some operators and punters concerned that groups are starting to dominate hospitality in Australia. What’s your take on that?
I would 100 per cent agree. It’s quite a sad part of the current Australian hospitality scene and I say this as I’m expanding into one of these groups! I guess for me, a lot of my expansion is down to the development of my team and giving these highly talented individuals an opportunity to showcase their food and hospitality. Opening a restaurant, like everything, isn’t getting cheaper; it’s more and more difficult for individuals. I guess I would like to see us backing some of our young, talented operators to showcase their skills. I’m hoping to take more of a back seat in the upcoming venues and look more to support and guide the team.
Times are tough right now. How are you adapting?
Yes, times are tough for sure. I guess for us we’re working harder than ever behind the scenes trying to boost business profiles, adapt to the market, keep our teams motivated and push towards common goals.
Who do you look to in Victoria for inspiration? Which venues and people set the bar for you?
Look, JP [owner Jean-Paul Prunetti] at France-Soir has been holding down one of the greatest restaurants in Melbourne for 40 years. I’ve been there a lot over the years and it’s very rare not to see him. I love his passion for hospitality. Obviously, the Trader House group is doing something exceptional at the moment. I always love Embla, too; Christian McCabe and Dave Verheul deliver an incredible product. I’m also very impressed with Chauncy in Heathcote.
Any advice for other operators who are hurting?
I don’t think I know the answer to this one. Obviously, hanging in there is how I would advise most friends, though it’s a really difficult market just now. Perhaps it just comes back to the old adage of focusing on what you do well and letting that be the driving force of your venue. I do have to say that the recent sunshine lately has felt like a bit of a positive shift in Melbourne.
Tipo 00, 361 Little Bourke St, Melbourne, (03) 9942 3946, open 11.30am-4pm and 5pm-9.30pm Mon-Sat, tipo00.com.au, @tipo_00