Legends and Trailblazers 2024: Chefs, Restaurateurs

Dan Hunter has a habit of putting places on the map: first Dunkeld in Western Victoria, where he raised the Royal Mail Hotel to giddy heights, and now Birregurra’s Brae, which has done so much to raise The Otways hinterland profile that a statue in his honour may as well be in the offing. Wherever he goes it’s his unwavering commitment to ethical growing and sustainable business practices as well as exemplary cooking that sets him apart. Brae’s mighty kitchen gardens are emblematic of Hunter’s philosophy of respect for place and season, and his championing of his adopted region’s small producers, including the sustainable proteins of octopus bycatch and wild-shot fallow deer, makes Brae appointment dining at its best. “Dan Hunter’s passion for excellence has made Brae more than a restaurant,” says food writer and editor Michael Harry. “It sets a benchmark for creative, sustainable dining not just in Australia but internationally. A meal (and if you're really lucky, a stay) at his Birregurra playground stands among the best in the world.”

Australia’s king of hummus has taken the road less travelled. After gaining notice with his work as head chef at Bar Saracen, he went freelance and became a pop-up prince, taking over the kitchens of fellow chefs to lend his own brand of Middle Eastern magic – usually toting a variation of his signature hummus topped with king prawn and spanner crab. Based on a recipe that took years to perfect, that silken, deeply creamy hummus (minus the seafood) has become the focus of his burgeoning retail brand. Sarafian, which blends tradition, chef smarts, great Victorian produce and a dash of very polished marketing, has taken dips from a mere fridge staple to something sought-after, replete with seasonal drops of toum and harissa. And there’s plenty more to come from chef with the skills to match the hype. Next cab off the rank: a permanent Melbourne deli and restaurant channelling his Armenian heritage. We can’t wait. “As chefs we love this kind of stuff, keeping it new and interesting,” Tom says. “It’s a unique position to be in, and I just love the creative freedom it gives me.” Our 2024 chef/restaurateur Trailblazer also receives a cash bursary generously donated by Alla Wolf-Tasker AM and the Lake House family to support and encourage young chefs in Victoria.