It's the moist, wonderful time of the year: ham season

Whichever way you slice it, a Christmas ham is the smallgood that keeps on giving, and in Victoria, you’ll find some of the very best. Glazed or unglazed, smoked or unsmoked, trussed, bagged and eager to please, here are the hams you oughta order this Christmas – and be sure to check turnaround times with your butcher when you do.

Salt Kitchen Charcuterie
If you’ve eaten delicious charcuterie at a Victorian restaurant in recent years, there’s a decent chance it was cured in Ballarat by the Salt Kitchen team. They also do a mean Western Plains pork Christmas ham, and they smoke it twice over European beech wood.
Salt Kitchen Charcuterie, 1B Wiltshire Ln, Delacombe, saltkitchen.com.au

Uncle’s Smallgoods
A close-guarded secret of the Dandenong elite, Uncle’s Smallgoods smokes a tasty ham. Pre-orders are now closed for the Christmas period, but the smokemaster of the southeast is putting aside a good few per day in the lead-up to Christmas, and encourages you to come down and secure yours – bone-in, boneless, smoked, unsmoked, nitrate-free, 1kg right through to 8kg.
Uncle’s Smallgoods, 32 Gladstone Rd, Dandenong North, (03) 9793 0135, unclessmallgoods.com

Meatsmith
Andrew “Hamdrew” McConnell’s luxury Fitzroy butcher is a ham haven this time of year. Glazed or unglazed, bone in or bone out, they’re all smoked over German beechwood – except for those that are smoked over chipped Yarra Yering barrique and bundled with wine.
Meatsmith, Fitzroy, St Kilda, Balwyn, Brighton, meatsmith.com.au

Andrew’s of Yarraville
He’s the self-styled King of Hams, and he has a bone to pick, gnaw and polish with you. Bone in or out, these hams start small and max out at over 10kg for a truly regal Christmas affair. Gypsy-style hams, “Ezy Cut” hams, European village-style hams, a pork knuckle he calls a “hambino” – put simply, the man can ham.
Andrew’s of Yarraville, 24 Anderson St, Yarraville, (03) 9687 2419, andrewschoice.com.au

Peter Bouchier
The butcher of distinction is back at it with another stunning range of festive hams, and after 40 years, the team has it down to a fine art. Pick up a glaze, a ham bag and a meat thermometer while you’re at it for guaranteed precision pork. Pre-ordering? Be sure to get yours in by 6pm Thursday 13 December.
Peter Bouchier, various stores, petergbouchier.com.au

G.McBean Family Butcher
Acquaint yourself with the full-flavoured Berkshire pigs of Raven’s Creek Farm this Christmas with a G.McBean ham. They come with preparation and cooking instructions, they come with a natty ham bag, and they come pre-loaded with festive cheer, thanks to the passion and exacting butchery of MFWF Legend Garry McBean.
G.McBean Family Butcher, Prahran Market, Stall 515/163 Commercial Rd, South Yarra, (03) 9826 0815, gmcbean.com.au

By Frank Sweet