Now a grown man, he makes a living growing outstanding mushrooms and selling to top chefs around the state, discovers Richard Cornish.
What is it?
The Mushroom Connection is a boutique mushroom farm growing ten varieties of mushrooms, specialising in the Asian varieties now popular with chefs. The range includes the delicately curved white and blue types of oyster mushrooms, the large, plump king brown, also known as the French horn mushroom, the brown-capped Japanese forest mushroom known as the shiitake, and the coral-like lion’s mane, which is used in Chinese traditional medicine. The Mushroom Connection is also one of just a few Australian producers growing the Japanese maitake mushroom. Known in English as hen-of-the-wood, its Japanese name translates as ‘dancing mushroom’, as people are said to dance with happiness when they find it in the forest, such, it’s said, are its healing properties.
Who’s producing it?
Jason Crosbie is a fungus fanatic. “When I was younger, I spent weekends with my grandparents who lived by a pine forest under the shadow of Mount Buninyong,” says Crosbie. “It wasn’t just the picking of mushrooms that I liked. It was the whole way they grew on the ground from wood, and all the different kinds of fungus. It has always fascinated me.” As he grew older, Crosbie went hiking further afield, armed with his camera and his dogs for company, and explored the Victorian forests on photographic safaris. He is now studying the medicinal nature of fungus and how it’s used in Asian medicinal foods.
Where is it?
The Mushroom Connection is headquartered in a purpose-built shed in old gold mining country at Scotchmans Lead outside Ballarat. His mushrooms are popular with local chefs who have embraced his produce and proudly highlight it on their menus.
Why it’s different?
Crosbie is a staunch supporter of locally grown and produced product. “A lot of ‘Australian mushrooms’ are grown here but on imported blocks of substrate that have been inoculated overseas, mostly in Asia,” he says. “It is deceitful to the people who expect ‘Australian Grown’ to be a 100 per cent Australian product.”
He keeps his own library of fungus spores to guarantee the perfect mushroom every time, and uses these spores to inoculate a combination of eucalyptus sawdust and lupins that he makes himself. He hydrates the mix and sterilises it with steam so it won’t become infected with any dangerous, feral fungus spores, before adding the spores in dark, humid rooms. After about six weeks, depending on the fungus, he replicates autumn fruiting season by dropping the temperature to 16 degrees and having the lights on for 12 hours, then off for 12, to simulate the autumnal equinox.
Who’s a fan?
Damien Jones worked with Aussie-born Thai cuisine champion David Thompson in Darley Street Thai in Sydney and Nahm in London. Jones now runs the award-winning pan-Asian Mr Jones restaurant in Ballarat. “Jason’s great. While it’s part of our ethos to support local businesses, we would probably buy his mushrooms anyway, wherever he grew them,” says Jones. “They are that good. To begin with, they are spectacular to look at. They maintain their colour, texture and flavour. They stir-fry, grill and cook beautifully in broth for soup.”
Mauro Laconi, Head chef Beppe in Daylesford, grew up in the mountains around Trentino-Alto Adige and mushrooms were part of his upbringing. “We would forage for mushrooms on weekends and the flavour of Mushroom Connection mushrooms brings back those memories,” he says. “I like them because of the lengths Jason goes to to make the product safe.” Laconi makes mushroom pappardelle by slicing and lightly roasting the mushrooms with a little olive oil, salt and pepper. He collects and reduces the cooking juices and adds this to cream in which the mushrooms are gently cooked. This sauce is finished with truffle paste and tossed through handmade pappardelle.
Where can I get it?
The Mushroom Connection does home delivery in Ballarat, sells at the farmers’ markets in Ballarat and South Geelong and supplies Damien Pike at the Prahran Market. They also sell grow-at-home kits from their online store themushroomconnection.com.au.
By Richard Cornish
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