In September we bade farewell to Carlton restaurant Epocha after more than a decade of service. But if Greek food and drinks served at 49 Rathdowne Street hold a special place in your heart, there’s still some good news: owners Angie Giannakodakis and Guy Holder are back with something new at the site.
Taverna is a lively, laid-back 60-seat Greek tavern, with upstairs given over to a bar and snacking space dedicated to bekrimeze – literally “drunken snacks”. But while Taverna’s brief is casual and its tenure temporary (it’s only here at the Rathdowne Street site till the end of the year), it’s by no means unconsidered. For Giannakodakis in particular, it’s personal. “Taverna is about Greek soul food. It’s an expression of my heritage and the ‘old’ recipes brought to life,” she says. “The older I get, the more I just want to be comforted by my mother’s food.”
Here’s her pointers on getting in on the action.
If we’re familiar with what you did at Epocha, what are the differences and what’s the same with Taverna?
Epocha was designed with influences from the 1880s, both in style and colour. The panelling and high ceilings created an avant-garde atmosphere for dining, often described as cosy and romantic by guests. The food was technically intricate, featuring well-prepared stocks and sauces, and showcased French-influenced European cuisine.
In contrast, Taverna exudes brightness and airiness through its white decor, pre-junta blue accents, and light wood-stained tables. While the food may be simple, every dish requires careful attention to detail, as even a small misstep can significantly affect the exceptional quality of the fresh ingredients we source. The differences in the dining experience are notable.
Our staff, both front-of-house and in the kitchen, share a genuine enthusiasm for serving you. You’ll find the same commitment and attention to detail that we have always strived for. If our service feels effortless, it’s simply because we all love what we do.
What about if this is our first experience dining at 49 Rathdowne Street – what can we expect?
You can expect to be back soon. We believe that the food and service create a comfortable dining atmosphere, allowing diners to feel relaxed and inspired to travel to Greece. The delicious food, while light, is accompanied by a generous spirit and an air of freedom. It just feels really good to be there.
If we’re just looking for a casual, low-key snack, what’s your go-to?
One of my favourite snacks is Cretan cheese pies, known as kalitsounia. These pastries are filled with mytzithra and feta, then shallow-fried until they’re golden and crisp. When they come out of the pan and are piping hot, it’s best to bite the corners and blow through them to cool them down. The first bite is pure heaven. The keftethes with beef and herbs are another favourite. They pair wonderfully with a wine cocktail or beer, making them one of the best snacks ever.
What if we want to go big?
Leave it to us; our team knows how to combine dishes to create a stunning spread. We haven’t even mentioned the char-grilled lamb rump or the pork chop yet. With an abundance of meze to start, there are many ways to experience Taverna. The menu is designed to showcase multiple flavours and to encourage sharing around the table. It’s that easy.
How do vegetarians fare with your new menus?
Respecting vegetables and their seasonality is essential to our menu. We offer a variety of vegetable dishes that change with the seasons. Right now, we have arakas, a dish featuring peas and artichokes with dill and herbs, we have dakos, which consists of small rusks topped with zucchini, olives, and feta; and, of course, our briam, a colourful assortment of vegetables (like a carousel) in an rich tomato and red pepper sauce, to name a few.
You’ve always been one of the country’s most passionate advocates for Greek drinks – what are you excited to pour at Taverna?
I’ve always appreciated the art of pairing food with wine with Greek wine and food, it’s quite nostalgic for me. Expect to encounter names that may be hard to pronounce – such as Melissaki, augoustiatis, mavrotragano, and savvatiano – but are certainly easy to drink. The list features a good variety from lesser-known regions that share a similar approach to winemaking with local producers. There’s also some notable wines from the wider world that work well with the cuisine. But sometimes, you might choose a flying dolphin over a super yacht – what matters most is enjoying the moment.
Start with an Aegean Negroni or a Mastic Beach, both of which incorporate Greek spirits, and let the journey begin.
You’ve described Taverna as a tavern “serving Greek food I’d be proud to feed my mother”. If she was sitting down to eat there tonight, what would you be putting in front of her?
All my life, I’ve enjoyed a consistently comforting menu at home. Regardless of the season or the ingredients my mum used, the meals were always balanced, and there was a special attention to detail in the way flavours were carefully blended. I truly hope we can always aspire to recreate that feeling.
For my mum, I would ensure there was a glass of cold water, a fresh napkin, and just a fork on the table (if she needs a knife we’re in trouble). The table would be filled with small dishes, a fresh salad, and the main dish. Her favourite was a vegetable dish called fasolakia – green beans, zucchini, and potatoes in a light tomato sauce that coats the vegetables. We would also have feta cheese, olives, pickles, and a seasonal salad, finishing the meal with delicious galaktoboureko for dessert.
And you’re here for a good time not a long time – at this site, at least?
We’re currently operating as a pop-up, and closing in late December. The motto of the restaurant is a reminder that life is too short, so enjoy the moment, the era, the time we are here.
Taverna, 49 Rathdowne St, Carlton, 03 9036 4949, ourtaverna.com, @our_taverna