DOC Gastronomia celebrates 20 years in business with a big makeover and a new menu for one of its best-loved properties.

Holy ravioli – Melbourne Italian institution DOC Gastronomia has turned 20. The milestone comes with an extensive re-fit for one its landmark properties, the restaurant formerly known as DOC Espresso, which is now trading with a fresh new look as DOC Osteria. From cicchetti and crocchetti to polpette and capelletti, here’s how you might reintroduce yourself to this titan of Lygon Street dining, according to DOC director and founder, Michael Costanzo. 

Twenty years! How did that happen?
Perhaps it’s a cliche but it feels like yesterday that we opened. Over two decades, we’ve built a community around our love for food, wine, and hospitality. Every year has brought new challenges and wins that have shaped our brand and team into what they are today. We’re calling this a new age of DOC dining, signifying our recommitment to setting the scene for Italian dining in Melbourne – just as we did 20 years ago.

And you’re celebrating with a new look, feel and offer at the Lygon Street flagship?
Absolutely – We designed the space with Formed Studio and Directitude Management, taking inspiration from inner-city osterie across Torino and Milano. We went all in on burgundy and brass accents and featured arches throughout the design as a tribute to the original Espresso Bar layout. The space was designed to celebrate the central red marble bar and facilitate our afternoon aperitivi offering.

If we’re DOC regulars, what are the ways we’ll use the Osteria?
The larger portion of the renovation focused on rehauling the kitchen to facilitate a wider menu. Our picks will always be the simple and widely loved classics, including the spaghetti al pomodoro, our antipasti and our signature DOC tiramisu, which are set to stay. Coffee service will be served next door at DOC Espresso and Delicatessen alongside pastries, panini and specialty groceries through the morning and early afternoon.

And if we’re new to DOC, where do we start?
Our advice is to share. Famiglia-style dining means tasting the whole menu – key dishes consider include: hearty polpette with Chianina beef and San Marzano tomato; panzanella, the Tuscan tomato and toasted focaccia salad with a cucumber sauce and balsamic crunch; the chicken saltimbocca; and fresh egg tagliatelle with mushrooms and truffle butter — a new take on our classic.

What are we drinking?
Our Osteria escapade brings our most extensive wine menu yet, with 38 wines on the list. With an all-Italian (bar one wine with a brilliant story) list, we’re excited by the variety and simplicity we will offer. Our menus are intentionally descriptive to celebrate the stories of each bottle and to encourage exploration. If you prefer something else, we have a well-rounded beer list and a cocktail list that leans aperitivi and amari-inspired. Our pick? The Palonauta, with Amaronauta amaro, Mezcal Amores Verde, grapefruit soda and lime.

What’s the story with the new pasta menu?
We’re returning to a simple, contemporary pasta menu. All of our pasta is pasta fresca and is made in-house daily – a true labour of Italian love. Sauces take inspiration from the highest northern towns to the lowest southern cities. Ones to watch include pipe rigate (pipes) with cinta sienese – a Tuscan white ragu that’s meaty and creamy; the cappelletti (hats), with prosciutto San Daniele DOP and ricotta filling, and a creamy leek sauce – typical of Emilia-Romagna; and a summer gnocchi pesto with basil, almond and celery – a summer take on the Genoa classic.

What else do we need to order on the first visit?
We’ve always had a venue with pride for pasta, and our new menu is no different. Start with cicchetti, crochette and olives as a pre-dinner bite with a glass of prosecco DOC. Enjoy the burrata (with pappa al pomodoro and tomato oil), our signature DOC lasagna and plenty of focaccia (with ’nduja and green olives or as a scarpetta for the sauce) and a glass of Barbera D’Alba. Finish with the newest addition – the DOC paradiso (chiffon sponge, white chocolate ganache, and Galliano vanilla) and a glass of moscato d’Asti or your preferred amari.

What makes the DOC tiramisu so popular?
Our DOC tiramisu could be spotted a mile away in its stainless steel cup. The secret lies in the quality of the ingredients: free-range pasteurised eggs, velvety mascarpone, freshly brewed Lavazza espresso and a generous splash of Montenegro — no cream, no additives, just simple ingredients and plenty of Italian love.

Twenty years ago, did you think you’d still be talking DOC 20 years later?
It’s hard to believe how far we’ve come. We always dreamed of creating a space that resonates with the community, but the support and love we’ve received have surpassed our expectations. Our restaurant and brand are about the connection with people, the theatre of food, the atmosphere, and the excitement of having something to look forward to. We need more of that, perhaps now more than ever.

DOC Osteria, 328 Lygon St, Carlton, open noon to late daily, docgroup.net, @doc_gastronomia